Basket Weave Crochet Pattern

November 3, 2026November 3, 2026 HeirloomHomeCraftsLeave a comment

A very popular pattern that makes a wonderful weighted blanket for those cool evenings.

Close-up of a textured pink knitted fabric with a woven pattern.

The traditional basketweave pattern uses a combination of Front and Back Post Double Crochets to create a textured, heavy fabric that resembles a woven basket. Both sides will look the same.

Skill Level

Confident beginner/Intermediate

Stitches Used (US Crochet Terminology)

CH (chain stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
FPDC (front post double crochet)
BPDC (back post double crochet)

Stitches Used (UK/AUS Crochet Terminology)

CH (chain stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (double crochet)
HTR (half treble crochet)
TR (treble crochet)
FPtr or RtrF (front post treble crochet/raised treble front)
BPtr or RtrB (back post treble crochet/raised treble back)

Yarn weight and hook recommendation

DK/8 ply or above with 3.5 – 5 mm hook

Gauge:

10 cm = 20 stitches, 10 rows (approximately, if using 8 ply/DK yarn)

Special Stitches:

FPDC (Front Post Double Crochet) is just a normal double crochet stitch, except you wrap your hook around the vertical body (post) of the stitch from the row below instead of working into the top “V” loops.

How to do it in 4 simple steps:

1. Yarn over your hook.
2. Insert your hook from the front, going right-to-left around the back of the stitch’s post and back out to the front (the post will wrap around your hook).
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop (you have 3 loops on your hook).
4. Finish like a normal double crochet: yarn over and pull through 2 loops, then yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops.

BPDC (Back Post Double Crochet) is a standard double crochet stitch, but instead of working into the top loops, you wrap your hook around the vertical body (post) of the stitch below from the back of your work.

How to do it in 4 simple steps:

1. Yarn over your hook.
2. Insert your hook from the back, going right-to-left around the front of the stitch’s post and back out to the back (the post will be pushed behind your hook).
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop (you have 3 loops on your hook).
4. Finish like a normal double crochet: yarn over and pull through 2 loops, then yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops.

Pattern Instructions

Start with chaining multiples of 8 + 4 (the 4 CH needed for the first turn in your work). For example: (10 X 8) + 4 = 84 CH or (14 X 8) + 4 = 116 CH or (20 X 8) + 4 = 164 CH.

R1: Skip the first 3 CH, work a DC each into all the remaining chains of the foundation.

R2: Turn with CH 2 *work a FPDC each around the next 4 DCs of R1, a BPDC each around the next 4 DCs of R1*, repeat from * to * until you reach the end, work a HDC into the last stitch of the previous row.

R3: Same as R2.

R4: Turn with CH 2 to stand as your first HDC of this row, *work a BPDC each around the next 4 Dcs, a FPDC each around the next 4 DCs*, repeat from * to * until you reach the end, work a HDC into the last stitch of the previous row.

R5: Same as Row 4.

Repeat rows 2 to 5 until you reach the desired height/length.

Giving Old Materials a New Life: Reuse and Upcycling

October 19, 2026November 3, 2026 HeirloomHomeCraftsLeave a comment

Before you throw something away, pause for a moment and imagine what it could become. Reuse and upcycling are wonderful ways to give everyday materials a second life—turning scraps, treasured remnants, and overlooked objects into something useful, beautiful, and entirely your own.

From fabric scraps to useful treasures

These handmade book covers, bookmarks, and needle books began with fabric scraps and salvaged pieces of vintage embroidered doilies. Instead of allowing those beautiful materials to disappear into a drawer or end up in the bin, I gave them a new purpose through patchwork, embroidery, and careful stitching.

A pair of handmade patchwork fabric book covers with embroidery — Handmade fabric book covers made from reused materials.

Small details with a practical purpose

A fabric book cover can protect a favourite book while adding a little personality to everyday reading. Bookmarks make thoughtful, useful gifts, and a needle book keeps needles safely together while making a sewing basket more colourful. Each item is practical, but each one also carries the character of the materials from which it was made.

I particularly enjoy working with pieces that already have a history. An embroidered flower, an unusual scrap of fabric, or a fragment of an old doily can become the starting point for a completely new design. The marks of the original textile are not something to hide; they are part of its charm.

A pair of handmade embroidered needle cases

Why reuse matters

Reuse is not only about avoiding waste. It is also about slowing down, noticing the possibilities in what we already have, and making thoughtfully rather than automatically buying something new. A small remnant can be enough to create a useful object, and the finished piece can feel more personal because it has been made with care.

I made these book accessories in July 2026, using fabric scraps and salvaged vintage embroidery. Some have already found new homes through my Etsy shop, while others remain available as reminders that beautiful, useful things can begin with materials that might otherwise have been discarded.

Whether you are sewing, crafting, repairing, or simply finding a new use for something old, I hope these projects inspire you to look at everyday materials differently. Before throwing something away, ask yourself: what else could this become?

Home Decor · diy

Shabby Chic Roses Crochet Square

October 14, 2026November 3, 2026 HeirloomHomeCraftsLeave a comment

This pattern channels the French Provincial style. Transform simple stitches into lush 3D rose granny squares and join them into a shabby‑chic bed cover or cosy afghan.

Skill Level:

Suited to confident, non‑beginner crocheters.

Materials:

A full size afghan (50 x 65”) will take about 12-14 100g balls or skeins of medium weight yarn (worsted weight/DK or 8 ply), of which only two is needed for the green parts you see in the photo, the rest should be 6-7 balls each of the other two colours (white and pink in the photo). It’s a good idea to buy a bit more if you can. Any leftovers you can use for a cushion cover.

Hook size should be chosen to suit the yarn (check the labels of the yarn).

Estimated Yarn Requirements for Other Sizes Using Worsted Weight Yarn:

Lapghan (36″ x 48″) → 1,500–2,500 yards (5–8 skeins, 200–300 yards each)
Throw (50″ x 60″) → 2,500–3,500 yards (8–12 skeins)
Twin (66″ x 90″) → 3,500–5,000 yards (12–16 skeins)
Full/Double (80″ x 90″) → 4,500–6,500 yards (15–22 skeins)
Queen (90″ x 100″) → 5,500–8,000 yards (18–26 skeins)
King (108″ x 100″) → 6,500–10,000 yards (22–32 skeins)

Stitches Used (USA) Terms:

CH: chain stitch
SL ST: slip stitch
SC: single crochet
DC: double crochet

The main feature is the Irish style 3D rose which in this pattern has 3 layers of petals: starting with 3 inner petals, then adding two more rounds with 6 petals each.

With a colour you want for the roses CH 4 and join with a SL ST to form a ring (or use a magic loop if you prefer).
CH 2 to stand as your first SC, then work 8 SC into the ring, SL ST to join the last one to the first SC (which was your 2 CH at the beginning).
*CH 3, skip 2 SCs of the second row, 1 SC into the next SC*, repeat * to* 3 times (3 loops in total).
*CH 2 and work 4 DC into the 3CH spaces, CH 2 and SL ST into the same space. SL ST into the next loop*. Repeat * to * twice to finish the first 3 petals of the rose.
CH 1, SL ST in base (in the back) of the SC of the second row (not the 3^rd), then work six 4 CH loops behind the 3 petals you made in the previous row, stitching them back evenly into the SCs of the second row with a slip stitch until you reach the end (if the 4 CH loops end up in front of the petals, pull on the CH 4 loops so that they are behind the petals, before working the next round).
*CH 2 and work 5 DC into each of the 4 CH spaces, CH 2 and SL ST into the same space. SL ST into the next loop*. Repeat * to * 5 times to finish the second row of petals of the rose (6 petals in total).
CH 1, SL ST in base (in the back) of the SC of the 5^th row, then work 6 X 5 CH loops
behind the 6 petals you made in the 6^th row, joining them all to the base with a SL ST.
*CH 2 and work 6 DC into each of the 5 CH spaces, CH 2 and SL ST into the same space.
SL ST into the next 5 CH loop*. Repeat * to * 5 times to finish the third and final row of 6 petals of the rose. Cut the thread.
With green (or the colour you chose for the leaves) SL ST into any of the gaps between the last row of rose petals. CH 3, then work 1 DC into the same space, CH 3, then work 2 DC into the same space. CH 3 and work 1 SC into the top of the first rose petal, CH 3 again and work 1 SC into the second petal. CH 3 and work 2 DC, 3 CH, 2 DC into the gap between the 2^nd and 3^rd petal. CH 3 and work 1 SC into the 3^rd petal, CH 3 then 2 DC, 3 CH, 2 DC into the gap between the 3^rd and 4^th petal. CH 3 and work 1 SC into the top of the 4^th rose petal, CH 3 again and work 1 SC into the 5th petal. CH 3 and work 2 DC, 3 CH, 2 DC into the gap between the 5^th and 6th petal. CH 3 and work 1 SC into the 6th petal, CH 3 and Finish the row with a SL ST to the 3^rd CH you started with. Cut the thread. You now have a small square.
Using the base colour (white in the photos), SL ST into any of the 3 CH spaces on the corner of your square (between the groups of 2 DC), CH 3 to stand as your first DC, then work 2 DC, 3 CH, 3 DC into the same space. *Skip to the next 3 CH space, work a cluster of 3 DC, another 3 DC into the SC, and 3 more DC into the next 3 CH space, so 9 DC in total between the corners. Skip to the 3 CH space on the next corner, work a cluster of 3 DC, 3 CH, 3 DC into it*, then repeat from * to * on all four sides of the square (total number of DCs on each side of the square will be 15, separated with a 3 CH space on each corner).
CH 3, skip to the 3 CH space on the corner of the square, work a 3 DC, 3 CH, 3 DC cluster into it, then proceed with working 3 DC (granny) clusters into the gaps between the three 3 DC clusters of the previous row. Join with a SL ST at the end of the row but only work two DC instead of the last 3, as you already made the first one with the 3 CH at the beginning.
CH 2, then work 1 SC into each of the previous row’s DCs, 5 SC into the 3 CH spaces at each corner. Join with a SL ST at the end of the row. You will have 18 SC on each side of the square + 5 SC in the corner 3 CH spaces, so a total of 92 SC. Cut the thread.

Join as you Go

With a colour you want to use for joining the squares (I used one of the pink ones) SL ST into the middle (3^rd) SC on any corner and CH 4, skip 2 SCs of the previous row, work 1 SC into the next SC and repeat this on each side of the first square, then join with a SL ST at the end of the row. You should have eight 4 CH loops on every one of the 4 sides of the square. Only do this with the first square and the rest of them will have to be joined to form your afghan or other project as shown in the photos.

Complete only two sides of the next square with the 4 CH loops, then start joining it to the first one chaining only 2 and using a SL ST to attach to the corresponding loop of the first square, CH 2 again and SC back to the second square.

When all your squares are joined, using still the same colour, work 5 CH loops into the perimeter joining them with a SC to the top of each loop on the outer sides of the squares along the perimeter of the afghan, then in the next row finish the blanket with working 1 SC, 4 DC, 1 SC into each of the 5 CH loops as the edging. You can of course use any other edging, such as a simple row of DC or a fancy lacy edging if you want. You can also make this pattern into a cushion, but you might want to join the squares with a different method or just sew them together to eliminate the gaps between the squares.